Clothing fabric knowledge Daquan comparison of the characteristics of various clothing fabrics and identification of the quality of the fabrics
The styles and characteristics of various clothing fabrics
Clothing is made of fabric, and fabric is the material used to make clothing. As one of the three elements of clothing, fabric can not only interpret the style and characteristics of clothing, but also directly affect the performance of clothing color and shape.
In the world of clothing, the fabrics of clothing are varied and changing with each passing day. But in general, high-quality, high-end fabrics are mostly comfortable to wear, sweat-absorbent, breathable, drape and stiff, visually noble, and soft to the touch.
It is advisable to choose pure cotton, pure wool, pure silk and pure linen for the clothing worn in formal social occasions. Most of the clothes made of these four kinds of pure natural texture fabrics are of higher grade. Sometimes clothing made of pure leather is also permitted.
The following is a brief introduction to the characteristics of common clothing fabrics.
1. Cotton cloth
Cotton cloth is a general term for all kinds of cotton textiles. It is mostly used to make fashion, casual wear, underwear and shirts. It has the advantages of easy warmth, soft fit, moisture absorption, and good breathability. The disadvantage is that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, and the appearance is not very beautiful, and it must be ironed frequently when wearing.
2, Linen
Linen, which is made from various types of hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal, abaca, etc. A fabric made from hemp plant fibers. It is generally used to make casual clothes and work clothes, and it is also used to make ordinary summer clothes at present. Its advantages are extremely high strength, moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, and good air permeability. Its disadvantage is that it is not very comfortable to wear, and the appearance is rough and blunt.
3. Silk
Silk is a general term for various silk fabrics woven from silk. Like cotton, it comes in many varieties with different personalities. It can be used to make all kinds of clothing, especially women’s clothing. Its strengths are thin, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, lustrous, elegant and comfortable to wear. Its shortcomings are that it is easy to wrinkle, easy to suck, not strong enough, and fades quickly.
4, Wool
Wool, also known as wool, is a kind of fabric woven from various types of wool and cashmere. general name. It is usually suitable for making formal and high-end clothing such as dresses, suits and coats. Its advantages are wrinkle-resistant and wear-resistant, soft to the touch, elegant and crisp, elastic and warm. Its disadvantage is that it is difficult to wash, and it is not suitable for making summer clothes.
5, Leather
Leather, which is a tanned animal fur fabric. It is mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is leather, that is, leather that has been dehaired. The second is fur, which is treated leather with fur. Its advantage is that it is light and warm, elegant and luxurious. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive and requires high storage and nursing, so it should not be popularized.
6, chemical fiber
Chemical fiber, short for chemical fiber. It is a textile made of fibers using polymer compounds as raw materials. Usually it is divided into two categories: artificial fibers and synthetic fibers. Their common advantages are vibrant colors, soft textures, drape, and smooth, comfortable fit. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, hygroscopicity and air permeability, easy to deform when heated, and easy to generate static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, the overall grade is not high, and it is difficult to be elegant.
7. Blend
Blended, which is made by mixing natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain proportion fabric, which can be used to make all kinds of clothing. Its advantage is that it not only absorbs the advantages of cotton, hemp, silk, wool and chemical fibers, but also avoids their respective shortcomings as much as possible, and is relatively cheap in value, so it is very popular.
1. Knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics, according to the weaving method, are divided into weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics.
(1) Weft knitted fabrics
Usually made of low-elastic polyester yarn or special-shaped polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton yarn, wool yarn, etc. Plain stitch, variable plain stitch, rib plain stitch, double rib plain stitch, jacquard, terry, etc., are knitted on various weft knitting machines. It has many varieties, generally has good elasticity and extensibility, the fabric is soft, firm and wrinkle-resistant, the hair type is strong, and it is easy to wash and dry quickly. However, its hygroscopicity is poor, the fabric is not stiff enough, and it is easy to fall off and curl. There are mainly the following varieties
1, polyester yarn-dyed knitted fabrics: the fabrics are bright in color, beautiful in color, harmonious in color matching, dense in texture and clear in texture. The hair type is strong, and it has a tweed style similar to wool fabrics. Mainly used for men’s and women’s tops, suits, trench coats, vests, skirts, padded jacket fabrics, children’s clothing, etc.;
2, polyester knitted labor fabrics: this The fabric is tight and thick, firm and wear-resistant, stiff and elastic. If the raw material is core-spun yarn containing spandex, it can be woven into elastic knitted denim with better elasticity. Mainly used for trousers for men’s and women’s tops;
3, polyester knitted wicker fabric
The fabric has distinct bumps and a thick feel Fullness, good elasticity and warmth. Mainly used for men’s and women’s tops, suits, windbreakers, children’s clothing and other fabrics;
4, polyester-covered cotton knitted fabrics
the The fabric is dyed for shirts, jackets and sportswear. The fabric is stiff and wrinkle-resistant, strong and wear-resistant, moisture-wicking and breathable on the body side, soft and comfortable;
5, faux fur needle fabric
The fabric feels thick, soft and warm. According to different varieties, it is mainly used for coat fabrics, clothing linings, collars, hats, etc. Artificial fur is also woven with warp knitting.
6, velvet knitted fabric
The fabric is soft to the touch, thick, strong and durable, with dense piles and soft shades . Mainly used as outerwear fabric, collar or hat material, etc. It can also be made of warp knitting, for example: warp terry shearling;
7, Hong Kong knitted wool
It not only has the smooth, glutinous, soft and bulky feel of cashmere fabric, but also has the characteristics of soft luster, good drape, no shrinkage and air permeability of silk fabric. Mainly used for spring, autumn and winter fashion fabrics.
(2) Warp knitted fabrics
Synthetic filaments such as polyester, nylon, vinylon, and polypropylene are often used as raw materials, and cotton, wool, It is made of silk, hemp, chemical fiber and its blended yarn as raw materials. It has the advantages of good longitudinal dimensional stability, stiff fabric, small detachment, no curling, and good air permeability. However, its lateral extension, elasticity and softness are not as good as weft knitted fabrics. There are mainly the following types:
1, polyester warp knitted fabric
The fabric surface is flat, bright in color and thick and thin. The thin type is mainly used as shirt and skirt fabric; the medium and thick type can be used for men’s and women’s clothing, trench coats, tops, suits, trousers and other fabrics;
2 . Warp knitted fleece fabric
Mainly used for winter men’s and women’s coats, windbreakers, tops, trousers and other fabrics. However, static electricity accumulates during use, and it is easy to absorb dust;
3, warp knitted mesh fabric
The texture of the mesh fabric Lightweight, good elasticity and breathability, smooth and soft to the touch, mainly used as summer shirt fabric for men and women;
4, warp knitted velvet fabric
The surface fluff is thick and stands, the hand feels thick, plump, soft, elastic, and has good heat retention. It is mainly used for winter clothing and children’s clothing fabrics;
5< strong>. Warp knitted terry fabric
This kind of fabric has a full and thick hand, firm and thick cloth body, good elasticity, moisture absorption and warmth retention, stable terry structure, and good Wear performance, mainly for sportswear, lapel T-shirts, pajamas, children’s clothing and other fabrics.
Pure wool worsted fabrics
Most of them are thin in texture, smooth and clear in texture. The luster is natural and soft, and has a beautiful light. The body is stiff, soft to the touch and rich in elasticity. After gripping the fabric tightly, there is basically no wrinkle, even if there is a slight crease, it can disappear in a short time.
Wool woolen fabrics
Most of them are thick in texture, plump in texture, soft in shades and light-footed. The woolen and suede surfaces do not reveal the textured bottom. The textured surface is clear and rich. Soft to the touch, firm and elastic.
Wool blend fabric
Wool and polyester blend fabric
The surface has a sparkle in the sun, It lacks the soft softness of pure wool fabrics. Wool polyester (polyester wool) fabrics are stiff but stiff, and stand out obviously with the increase of polyester content. The elasticity is better than that of pure wool fabrics, but the hand feel is not as good as pure wool and woollen blended fabrics. After holding the fabric tightly, release it with almost no creases.
Wool and viscose blends
The sheen is duller. The worsted type feels softer, and the woolen type feels loose. The elasticity and stiffness of such fabrics are not as good as those of pure wool and wool polyester and wool blended fabrics. If the viscose content is high, the fabric is prone to wrinkling.
Man-made wool-like fabrics
Traditional wool-like fabrics made of viscose and artificial wool fibers have dull luster, soft hand feel and lack of stiffness . Due to poor elasticity, wrinkles are prone to appear and are not easy to fade away. The strength of the yarn extracted from the fabric when wet is significantly lower than that in the dry state, which is an effective method to identify viscose fabrics. In addition, these wool-like fabrics become stiff and thick when wet. With the advancement of science and technology, wool-like products have also made great progress in terms of color, feel and durability. The continuous innovation of high-tech textile products has made our world more colorful.
Purified fiber wool-like fabric
Generally, synthetic fibers are used as the main material, artificial fibers or colored silks are used as auxiliary threads, and some novel synthetic fibers are used (Special silk) as the main material, such as colorful silk, lelis, oolong silk, fat and thin silk, etc., with appropriate weave, can make wool-like fabrics of different thicknesses. This kind of fabric has two kinds of slub-like shapes on the cloth surface, and the style is natural. With the natural style characteristics of natural fibers. After scientific and reasonable dyeing and finishing, the cloth surface is bright in color, good in gloss, crisp and elastic. Suitable for mass consumption.
1, Full Yarn
Dyed or partially dyed yarn (or in fabric) in both warp and weft There are several colored yarns interwoven with white yarns).
2, Half Yarn
The warp or weft yarns are dyed or partially dyed.
3, white weave
A cloth woven from yarn that has not been dyed—grey cloth.
4Comparison of white weave and yarn-dyed products
The dyeing fastness of yarn-dyed yarn is higher than that of white weave after dyeing The color fastness is high.
Second, the reason why the fabric adopts full-dyed weaving and half-dyed weaving
1, full-dyed weaving
A In order to achieve the effect of different colors – dyeing the same raw material with different colors after printing and dyeing cannot be done, but using yarn-dyed weaving can do it.
B Color fastness requirements, shade requirements – yarn-dyed products have good color fastness and good shade.
C Requirements for Layering – Requires a good layering.
2. half-dyed
The difference of warp and weft raw materials——Using different pairs of warp and weft yarns The performance requirements of dyeing are different, and half-dyed weaving can be used to reduce costs and increase fancy.
Three, due to the different printing and dyeing procedures, dyed fabrics can be divided into raw weaving and cooked weaving
1. General printing and dyeing procedures : Weaving into grey fabric – training – bleaching – dyeing – setting – tentering – finishing
2. raw weaving: After the product is woven, it must go through The whole process of printing and dyeing (most of the dyed fabrics are raw weaving)
cooked weaving: After the product is woven, it is mainly used for setting, tentering, post-processing and other processes in printing and dyeing. Without the process of training, bleaching and dyeing. Yarn-dyed fabrics are generally mostly woven.
4. Product classification of yarn-dyed fabrics
1, cotton yarn-dyed fabrics
The warp and weft are yarn-dyed fabrics made of cotton.
Products: shirt cloth, sheets, quilt covers, curtains, tablecloths, etc.
2, polyester-cotton yarn-dyed fabric
A yarn is made of polyester-cotton blended yarn, and the specification is T90 /C10; T80/C20; T70/C30; T65/C35;
T55/C45; The range of fabrics is very wide, which is used for decoration. It is commonly called furnished fabric abroad. Decorate fabric refers to the cloth used for decoration, such as furniture cloth, tablecloth, bedding, tablecloth for dining table, etc. The decorative fabric we refer to is generally: window screen , curtains and sofa release three categories.
Window screens: generally made of polyester, light and breathable screens.
Technology:
1) Woven: tulle is light and breathable, and the finished product can be embroidered and printed.
2) Knitting: The finished warp knitting can be yarn-dyed, jacquard and printed.
General requirements for window screens: light, thin, good light transmittance, but also consider its use, have a hazy feeling, fastness and cost.
The common width of window screens: 150 cm; 280 cm.
Curtain: It is made of interwoven chemical fiber and other raw materials, which is thick and has good shielding.
1. Several types of curtain materials commonly used at present:
A warp polyester, weft polyester
B warp polyester, weft cotton or viscose (rayon) or chenille yarn (cotton chenille, viscose chenille, acrylic chenille)
C warp cotton, weft cotton or polyester
2. Weaving :
White woven, bleached, printed, jacquard, printed or embroidered after jacquard, and can also be decorated with decorative threads in the raw materials.
