Outdoor Climbing Tips: Climbing Sports Injuries and Prevention!
With the growing popularity of rock climbing, the number of sports injuries has also increased dramatically. Since rock climbing is a sport that emphasizes hand strength, injuries to the fingers, wrists, elbows and shoulders account for almost the vast majority. However, rock climbers are often ignorant of the types and preventive measures of these sports injuries, even ignoring their severity or delaying medical treatment, and eventually forced to end their climbing careers. The purpose of this article is to analyze and sort out the relevant knowledge of sports medicine at home and abroad according to the characteristics of rock climbing, in order to reduce the incidence of sports injuries and improve the effect of rock climbing training.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
2. Types of rock climbing injuries
According to a 1995 medical survey report on 42 professional rock climbers from the ‘American Sport Climbing Association (ASCF)’ The most common sports injuries include the following 11 hand, shoulder and elbow injuries. Next, we will further analyze and introduce the causes, symptoms, and diagnosis and treatment of the first eight injuries.
(1) Hand sports injuries
1. Finger collateral ligament injury: Sprain or rupture of the finger collateral ligament is the most common sports injury in rock climbing, among which the “proximal interphalangeal joint” of the middle finger, index finger or ring finger and the “metacarpal and interphalangeal joint” of the thumb ’Injury-based. When a rock climber uses a dynamic motion to pick a pocket, the “proximal interphalangeal joint” of the middle three fingers will be subjected to extreme force and bending in the �x area; while the pinching point ( The action of pinch is prone to sprain the “metacarpal and interphalangeal joint” of the thumb. The most common symptoms of patients are joint swelling, stiffness, chronic pain, and limited movement. If the fingers are flexed and unstable when pressure is applied to the affected area, the superficial collateral ligament has been completely ruptured; if the patient only feels pain, If the affected part is still stable, it may just be a sprain. As for the treatment method, if the ligament is only sprained, the affected area should be rested and ice compresses should be applied to reduce swelling. Next, the affected finger and the adjacent fingers can be tied together with the “adjacent finger combined fixation method”, and light pressure is applied to the back of the joint deformed part to guide its restoration. After two weeks of immobilization, the fingers can be tested for exercise. Swelling and pain in the affected area will persist for months, but rock climbing is still possible. If the ligament is completely ruptured, the patient will need to see a doctor for further diagnosis and evaluation of the feasibility of surgical treatment. If non-surgical treatment is used, it may be difficult to apply force to the fingers after recovery.
2. Flexor tendon injuries: There are two flexor tendons in each finger (except the thumb), of which the ‘flexor superficialis’ can connect the ‘proximal interphalangeal joint’ and ‘metacarpal and interphalangeal joint’ ;bend; and the ‘flexor digitorum muscle’ can bend the ‘distal interphalangeal joint’, ‘proximal interphalangeal joint’ and ‘metacarpal and interphalangeal joint’. When rock climbing, the closed grip method (close) is easy to tear the tendon of the ‘superficial flexor muscle’; and the pocket (pocket) is easy to tear the tendon of the ‘extensor digitorum superficial muscle’. When the ‘superficial flexor’ tendon is torn, the ‘proximal interphalangeal joint’ will have difficulty flexing; when the ‘flexor profundus’ tendon is torn, the ‘distal interphalangeal joint’ will be difficult to flex , pain, swelling and loss of grip and pinch force of the affected part are the common symptoms of both. During the examination, first straighten the ‘proximal interphalangeal joint’ and try to bend the fingertip. If the affected finger cannot flex the ‘remote interphalangeal joint’ Injury; as for the inspection of the ‘superficial flexor muscle’ tendon, you can place the palm up on the table, keep the four fingers outside the affected finger in a stretched position and bend the affected finger. Injury to the flexor superficialis ’ tendon. As for diagnosis and treatment, patients should seek medical attention promptly after injury to correctly judge the condition and evaluate the possibility of surgical repair. If surgery is decided, it must be done within two weeks.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
3. The second loop pulley (A2 pulley) injury: There are 5 loop pulleys in each finger to connect and fix the bone finger and the tendon (except the thumb), and the frequent bending of the tendon will cause friction with the pulley, and cause it to tear. The ‘second loop trochlear’ is located at the ‘proximal phalanx’ near the ‘metacarpal and interphalangeal joint’, and is often torn by rock climbers due to excessive force during the close grip. The middle and ring fingers are the most common. According to statistics, about 40% of professional rock climbers suffer from the medical record of the “second loop block” injury. In severe cases, the second loop pulley will be completely ruptured, causing the flexor tendon to no longer be attached to the phalanx, and it will show an arcuate bending, the so-called “bowstringing phenomenon” (bowstringing). The diagnosis of the second annular trochlear injury is more difficult, and the cause can only be correctly identified by nuclear resonance or computed tomography. As for the treatment, if it is only a laceration of the pulley, wrap the affected finger with tape and stop rock climbing for 2-3 months; however, if the loop pulley is completely broken, surgery is required to restore it.
4. Trigger finger: A condition in which the tendon sheaths of the flexor muscles of the fingers become inflamed, most commonly in the ‘first loop pulley’ (A1 pully) in the middle, ring, or thumb. Normal tendons slide back and forth within the pulley that maintains the space of motion, but if the tendon is inflamed and a nodule develops, the nodule can still pass through the pulley when the finger is flexed, but can get stuck on the volar side of the pulley when extended. When it is slight, external force is required to pull the fingers apart, and when the nodule squeezes through the pulley, it produces a sound like a gusseting machine. When severely inflamed and swollen, the fingers can even get stuck in the bend and can’t move. As for the examination, tender nodules can generally be felt directly in the affected area, and most of them are located in the ‘metacarpal and interphalangeal joints’. In severe cases, the ‘proximal phalanx joint’ may also experience limited extension or flexion. As for treatment, initially splinting the ‘metacarpal and interphalangeal joints’ in a stretched position (about two weeks), administering short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), or injecting topical steroids. However, because repeated injections of steroids may cause flexor tendon rupture or damage to the sensory nerves of the fingers, if the condition does not improve within a month or after two injections of steroids, surgical removal or removal of the adherent tendon sheath should be considered.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(2) Shoulder sports injuries
The so-called shoulder joint is the joint formed between the humerus and the labrum of the scapula, and the clavicle is transverse to it, forming the acromioclavicular joint with the acromion. The glenohumeral joint is a ball-and-socket joint in which the humerus is spherically wrapped in the superficial labral fossa, with active labrum, capsular ligament and passive deltoid muscle, ‘rotator cuff’ ) to provide stability. In this small space, frequent friction and collision between joints, tendons, ligaments and bursae will cause problems such as: rotator belt
tear, subacromial bursitis, biceps tendonitis, supraspinatus tendon Shoulder injuries such as inflammation, we call it “impingement syndrome” (Impingement Syndrome). The common conditions of Flank Syndrome include the following three types:
1. Rotational band tendinitis: The rotatable band is composed of the subscapularis, supraspinatus, subspinalis, and teres minor muscles. These muscles cover the humerus and play an important role in shoulder stability and arm movement. However, due to the close proximity of the rotator belt to the arcuate protruding tissue formed by the acromion and the pecking process, frequent friction will cause the rotator belt to rupture, especially the supraspinatus tendon.
2. Bursitis: There is another tissue between the rotating belt and the “acromial-pecking process”, called the bursa, whose function is to reduce the friction and collision between the two. Frequent impact will inflame the bursa, with subacromial bursitis being the most common.
3. Biceps tendonitis: Rupture, swelling, and inflammation of the rotator cuff will cause abnormal blood supply to the tendon, which will accelerate the wear and tear of the biceps long head tendon, or even rupture.
Patients with Flanking Syndrome typically experience pain in the front and outside of the shoulder, reduced range of motion in the shoulder (especially the inability to lift the arm over the head), and muscle weakness in the arm. The aim of the initial treatment is to reduce pain and swelling, and to adjust the training method to allow the affected area to rest. Next, physical therapy such as muscle strengthening exercises (such as training of the lower trapezius and serratus anterior) and shoulder stretching exercises can be used. If necessary, short-term non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents or local injections of steroids can be administered.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(3) Elbow sports injuries
The most common elbow injury among rock climbers is the so-called ‘epicondylitis’. Epicondylitis can be divided into ‘medial epicondylitis’ (commonly known as golfer??s elbow) and ‘lateral epicondylitis’ (commonly known as tennis elbow). Among them, the medial epicondyle of the humerus is the origin of the superficial flexor muscles and the lateral carpi flexors, while the lateral epicondyle of the humerus is the origin of the extensor digitorum and lateral carpi muscles. In terms of the characteristics of rock climbing, the flexor strength is important. The chance of paralyzing medial epicondylitis is therefore higher. Epicondylitis refers to the pulling of the flexor (extensor) muscles of the forearm, which causes tearing, inflammation, swelling and other conditions at the origin of the medial (lateral) epicondyle of the humerus. The symptoms include: the center of the medial (lateral) epicondyle of the humerus Tenderness, extensive tenderness of flexor (extender) digital muscle and flexor (extender) wrist muscle, etc. As for the treatment, if the pain recurs, a fasciotomy may be considered for the patient to rest the affected muscles properly, apply physical therapy such as local heat compress or ultrasound, and perform stretching and muscle strength training for the affected muscles.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
Prevention of rock climbing injuries
(1) Basic principles
The following principles will help rock climbers identify the warning signs of sports injuries and prevent them from happening
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1. Gradually increase the training intensity and give the body enough adaptation period
2. If the point is not within the range of finger force load, don’t try too hard
3. Develop the right training style, correct an injury-prone climbing style or habit
4. When you are injured, you must change your plan as soon as possible, and don’t make your condition worse because of your desire to be kind
5. Try to balance the climbing movements so that the pressure is equally shared by each muscle group
6. Do not perform actions that exceed the physical load due to the pressure or expectations of the audience
7. Avoid stretching the joint to its limit as this will cause damage to surrounding tendons or tissues
8. The intensity of training does depend on individual abilities
9. In order to develop muscle balance, it is necessary to train the strength of antagonistic muscles at the same time
10. Injuries can be avoided by exercising flexibility training
11. Do not ignore the symptoms of inflammation, swelling and pain, otherwise it will delay the recovery of the affected part
12. Do not rely too much on analgesics, because while reducing swelling and pain, it will also cover up the warning signal sent by the affected area and reduce self-immunity
13. No matter how subtle the symptoms may be, vigilance and active prevention are required.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
(2) Implementation method
1. Warming up and finishing exercise: Warming up before exercise is the first priority in preventing sports injuries. For rock climbing, you can climb a simple route across the wall for 2-3 minutes to promote blood circulation until the body sweats a little, but the principle must be that the arm will not be hardened (pump). Next, in order to increase muscle elasticity and avoid strain, perform 20 minutes of soft exercise. The principles of stretching are as follows: maintain each movement statically for 10 seconds; do not press hard after the muscles are stretched; tendons feel pulled, but not painful; keep the principle of lightness and slowness, and keep breathing deeply; repeat 2-3 times for each movement. A post-climbing clean-up exercise is designed to stimulate blood circulation, remove metabolites, and reduce muscle pain, using the same steps as a warm-up.
2. Flexibility training: Flexibility training can enhance the stretchability of muscles, which is very important for increasing the range of motion of joints and preventing muscle strain. In addition, the more stretched the muscles, the greater the increase in muscle strength, and the less flexible people have a higher chance of suffering from tendinitis. In order to prevent injuries to the hands, shoulders and elbows, the flexibility training of the upper body should include: neck joints, shoulder joints, biceps, triceps, deltoid, flexor, extensor and back muscles and other parts the stretch.
Outdoor rock climbing skills, rock climbing injury and prevention!
3. Muscle strength training: Insufficiency of muscle strength development is often the cause of many sports injuries. For example, tendonitis in some rock climbers is due to the strength of the biceps muscle is much greater than its antagonist muscle – the triceps muscle, which makes the triceps tendon. caused by tearing. For rock climbers, antagonist muscle training should focus on the strength of the forearm extensors, triceps, and back muscles commensurate with the development of the forearm flexors, biceps, and abdominal muscles. Secondly, in order to reduce the attack rate of shoulder ‘pinch syndrome’, it is necessary to strengthen the rotator girdle muscles, lower trapezius, serratus anterior, etc. to increase the stability of the shoulder joint.
4. Scheduling of the training plan: The correct training plan can not only avoid the occurrence of sports injuries, after the injury, the moderate adjustment of the training plan can also help the rehabilitation of the affected part. In order to fully recover the physical condition, rest days must be placed in a series of climbing days. In principle, explosive strength training must be separated by two days.
Strength endurance training can be two consecutive days, but there must be an equal number of rest days. . Muscular endurance training can be continued for 3 to 6 days, followed by 1 to 2 days of rest. Secondly, there must be enough rest time between each route when climbing, generally 5-10 minutes. In addition, you should avoid trying the same movement repeatedly or choosing a fixed-form route when training.
5. Avoid trying dangerous movements: In addition to micro-trauma, sometimes dangerous movements such as dynamic, upside-down, locked-in grasping, and rock digging may also cause acute sports injuries such as muscle, tendon strain or ligament sprain. In principle, you should try to climb with static and balanced movements, avoid stretching your limbs to the limit, and choose to give up when you feel a little pain. (Pengcheng Network)