Sewing thread is very important in life. Clothing, home textiles, etc. are all connected by sewing threads to connect pieces of fabric. In clothing production, sewing thread is not only the main accessory of clothing, but also has decorative functions. The quality of the stitching thread affects the sewing effect, processing cost and the appearance quality of the finished product. There are many types of sewing threads and their uses are also different. Let’s learn about sewing thread with me.
1 Introduction to Sewing Thread
Sewing thread is the thread required for knitted clothing products. Sewing thread can be divided into natural fiber, synthetic fiber sewing thread and mixed sewing thread according to the raw materials. category. With the development of the polyester industry, more and more pure polyester fibers are used as raw materials for sewing threads.
The single yarn count range of sewing thread is generally 9-80, and the number of plies is mostly 3 strands, but there are also types of 2 strands, 4 strands and more than 6 strands, up to 12 strands. Sewing threads with more than 6 strands are generally used in the leather, sail and shoe industries.
There are many packages of sewing thread, mainly twisted cotton thread and silk thread in the era of manual sewing. With the use of sewing machines, wood yarn groups appeared, that is, the waxed cotton thread was wound on a wooden core, and then there were paper core (or plastic core) threads, cardboard threads, thread balls, pagoda threads, etc. The capacity of various packages varies according to civil and industrial use. Civil sewing thread, such as wood yarn ball, paper core thread, cardboard thread and thread ball, etc., with a length of 50-1000 meters; industrial sewing thread with a package length of 1000-11000 meters, usually wound in a conical bobbin or On the edged bobbin, it is called pagoda line or splint bobbin line.
2 Characteristics of Sewing Thread Types
1. Cotton Sewing Thread
Good heat resistance, elasticity, abrasion resistance, moisture resistance and anti-bacterial ability, suitable for high-speed sewing and Durable pressing. The most used is the long-staple pure cotton thread, which is made of long-staple cotton through combing, singeing, mercerizing, and high-density twisting, so the tensile force is better than that of ordinary combed pure cotton. Often used for sewing cotton clothing and other cotton fabrics.
2. Pure cotton thread
Pure cotton thread is generally divided into two parts: carded and combed. The real 100% pure cotton thread that can be used for sewing is fully combed cotton. Generally, 402, 202, and 203 are used. It is combed and singeed from high-quality cotton in the cotton area. Pure cotton thread is often used for sewing of pure cotton clothing and other pure cotton fabrics.
3. Polyester sewing thread
High strength, flat and beautiful stitches, wear-resistant; no mildew or rot, low price, rich colors, not easy to fade, not shrink.
4. Polyester-cotton sewing thread
Made of 65% polyester staple fiber and 35% cotton fiber blend, the thread has high strength, good abrasion resistance, low shrinkage and flexibility And good elasticity, good heat resistance. Various garments can be sewn.
5. Nylon sewing thread
Strong elongation, good elasticity, smooth texture, silky luster, excellent wear resistance.
6. Nylon thread
High breaking strength, good abrasion resistance, low hygroscopicity, high elasticity, but not enough heat resistance, generally controlled at about 120 ℃. Generally used for sewing chemical fiber fabrics, woolen wool, sweaters, etc.
7. Vinylon thread
The price is low, the breaking strength is high, the abrasion resistance is lower than that of the nylon thread, and the chemical stability is good. It is mainly used for sewing various flour bags, cloth rubber shoe uppers, Canvas, buttonholes, buttons, etc.
8. Silk thread
Smooth surface, soft luster, good elasticity and high temperature resistance. It is used to sew woolen garments and satin fabrics; rayon has bright colors, but poor strength, poor moisture absorption, and relatively cheap price. Mostly used for machine embroidery.
3 How to produce sewing thread
1. Cleaning and rolling: Pour polyester staple fiber into the turntable, disrupt the original regular fibers and combine with each other to form Rolled fiber block.
2. Carding and splicing: The carding machine will continue to card and splicing the large package fibers into small strips.
3. Roving and spun yarn: The roving and spinning frame adjust the strip fibers to the desired count, such as 50S, 40S, 20S, 30S and other single yarns.
4. Stitching and twisting: The stitching machine twists the single yarn into the required number of strands, such as 50S/2, 40S/2, 20S/2, 30S/3, etc.
5. Twisting and loosening: The finished strands are made into skeins or bobbins, ready for dyeing.
6. Dyeing and packaging: Dyeing according to customer’s needs, and shipping in tubes.
4 How to thread the sewing machine
Automatic needle threader with spring
1. Make sure the needle is in the upper needle position; the presser foot is down.
2. Press the threading lever down with the fingers of the left hand; pull the sewing thread with the right hand through the thread hook (A) and then pull it to the right. Note: The finger must press down the threading lever vertically, not to the right.
3. When the threading lever is pressed to the bottom, the threader will automatically rotate and the threading hook will pass through the needle hole.
4. Pull the thread toward the needle, and gently lift it up against the needle, so that the thread is hooked by the threading hook (B).
5. Gently pull the thread end and release the threading lever at the same time, the thread hook will rotate to hook the thread into the needle hole to form a thread loop.
6. Pull out about 10 cm of thread from the back of the pinhole.
Automatic needle threader without spring
1. When the needle threading lever is pressed to the bottom, keep pressing down and turn the lever slightly to the right and back to make the needle threading. Hook through the needle hole.
2. When releasing the threading control lever, after seeing that the thread is hooked by the threading hook (b), turn the lever slightly to the right front, so that the threading hook will hook the thread into the needle hole to form a thread loop .
Automatic needle threader with double thread hook with spring
1. Make sure the needle is in the upper needle position; the presser foot is down.
2. Pull out the thread passing through the thread hook about 10 cm, and hook the thread on the double wire hook (A and B).
3. Gently pull the thread to the thread cutter on the left side of the machine head to cut the thread end.
4. Press the threading lever down to the lowest position until the double wire hook rotates and stops.
5. Release the threading lever and see that the thread is hooked into the needle hole to form a thread loop. If the threading lever does not reset, gently lift it by hand.
6. Pull out about 10 cm of thread from the back of the pinhole.
5 Basic stitches for hand sewing , as well as pleating, necking, etc. You can pick several stitches at a time and pull the thread together. The stitch distance of the flat needle is generally maintained at about 0.5 cm.
2. TackingStitch/Basting
Basting and basting: The stitches of the plain stitch are the same, but the stitch length is larger. This hand stitching method is usually used for formal sewing. The rough fixation is to facilitate the next suture, which is similar to a bead needle.
3. Backstitch
Backstitch, Backstitch: This is the most solid hand sewing method similar to machine sewing. This method can be used to sew zippers, crotch, bags Bags and other places with high requirements for firmness.
4. OversewingStitch/Overcasting
Overlock seam: This method is generally used to sew the burrs of the fabric to prevent the burrs of the fabric from unraveling.
5. Blanket&ButtonholeStitch
Overlock seam and buttonhole seam: These are two very similar sewing methods, the use is the same as overlock seam, but the latter two are decorative and more practical.
6. DrawingStitch
Hidden stitch: This is a very practical stitch, which can hide stitches, and is often used in areas that are not easy to sew on the reverse side.
6 How to choose sewing machine thread
1. Select the material of the sewing thread first;
2. The sewing thread is forming Whether it is neat after finishing, if it is not neat, there may be many inner joints or uneven thickness;
3. The fluffing degree of the sewing thread;
4. After the sewing thread is dyed at high temperature , whether the shape returns to the original thickness;
5. Whether the elongation of the sewing thread meets the standard required by itself;
6. The tensile force meets its own standard;
7. Whether the roughness meets the international and national standards;
8. The color fastness meets the standard (different standards can be customized according to customer requirements);
9 , Whether the environmental protection requirements are met (environmental protection requirements are based on customer requirements, and the requirements of each country are different);
10. The length detection can calculate the gram-to-weight ratio according to different specifications;
11. The yarn should not be too wet when the sewing thread is received, otherwise it is easy to mold or fade;
12. Necessary needles, No. 11 and No. 14; general sewing thread 40s/2 , 20s/2 is a good choice for hand sewing basting thread;
13. The popular name of sewing thread model will remove the “s/” in the middle, for example, 40s/2 will be directly called 402 ;
14. When your sewing machine has problems such as jumper thread and thread breakage, it is often caused by the selection of inappropriate needle thread.
