The Carabiner used in early mountaineering were made of steel or iron. The characteristics of steel iron locks are strong and durable, and can withstand large tensile forces (some can withstand 4000-5000 kg of tensile force). The disadvantage is that it is heavy, which increases the load of climbers and cannot be carried in large quantities. Later, such iron locks were gradually replaced by aluminum alloy iron locks. Aluminum alloy iron locks are light and strong. At present, some manufacturers have produced titanium alloy iron locks that are better than aluminum alloys.
The iron lock is the most widely used, and the most indispensable and substitute equipment in the climbing equipment. The main purpose of the iron lock when climbing is to connect the climbing rope and the intermediate fulcrum. Iron locks can replace many complex and cumbersome knots in climbing. The combination and use of many climbing equipment such as seat belt
s, ascenders, descenders, etc. are connected by iron locks.
In the mountaineering adventure and climbing the rock wall, the iron lock is a safety guarantee, some people call the iron lock a safety buckle.
When climbing, the protective rope is connected to the middle fulcrum through iron locks. Any iron lock must be strong enough to withstand the impact and pulling force of the climber’s sudden fall. But how is it sturdy enough? According to the fall test of the International Mountaineering Federation (ULAA), the protective rope must be able to withstand at least 1200 kg of tension. Due to the braking friction of the rope on the iron lock, the load of the iron lock should be three times the load of the protective rope in the ULAA drop test. Four times, so the iron lock should be able to withstand at least 1,500 kg of shock and tension. That is to say, in order to obtain maximum safety in a serious fall, the iron lock can at least withstand such a load. The normal pulling force of the aluminum alloy iron lock is generally 2000-3000 kg to ensure the safety of climbers.
Iron locks are generally divided into O-type iron locks, D-type iron locks, and improved D-type iron locks.
The advantage of the O-type iron lock is that the friction force is small and the use range is wide. The O-type iron lock has better mobility on rock cones, ice cones and snow cones than the D-type iron lock. The lock is generally used for the connection of equipment such as risers and pulleys, and it does not bear the impact tension under normal circumstances. The O-shaped iron lock has good mobility and will not get stuck on sharp corners and change direction or move suddenly. The disadvantage is that the impact tensile force is small, and the load of the O-type iron lock is equally shared by both sides of the iron lock, which can generally withstand a tensile force of 1500~1800 kg.
D-type iron lock is a kind of iron lock used more in climbing. D-type iron lock is stronger than O-type iron lock. Almost all the load of D-type iron lock is from the long side opposite to the opening. Therefore, it can withstand the impact and tensile force, and the safety factor is high. Traditional D-type iron locks are mainly used for mountaineering expeditions. The iron lock for rock climbing is improved on the basis of the traditional D-type iron lock. The opening is large and cashew-shaped, making it easy for climbers to padlock with one hand while climbing. Iron locks with security threaded buckles, mostly large triangles or large D-shaped, are used for complex connection of equipment. The most common use is for the connection of protective ropes and seat belts, and for protective ropes and upper protection during upper protection. The connection of the fulcrum, therefore, generally we also call this type of iron lock a protection iron lock. The iron lock has two basic states, open and closed. The tension that the iron lock can withstand when it is closed is three times that of when it is opened. Climbers should pay special attention when using the iron lock: after hanging the iron lock, the opening of the iron lock should be turned down and facing out, or down and facing the climber. If the opening of the iron lock faces the rock surface, it is accidentally opened by friction or collision on the rock, which is prone to danger.
The iron lock must be carefully checked for cracks or cracks before use. The opening and closing of the opening should be smooth without obstruction. The opening can be opened when supporting the weight of the climber. If the opening of the iron lock is easy to stick and cannot be opened after being used for a period of time, the load may be the damaged engraving of the opening or the lock, and the dirt is at the hinge or the spring. Or the opening is bent. The damaged engraved edge can be carefully ground with a file, the opening is rusted, the dirt on the hinge or the spring can be dropped into the hole of the hinge spring with kerosene, solvent, gasoline, etc., and the opening is opened and closed until the opening and closing are smooth, and then The iron lock is boiled in boiling water, and the cleaning oil is removed. Iron locks with curved openings can no longer be used.
The use of the iron lock is very simple, just snap into the fulcrum and then snap into the protective rope. But in use, in order to enhance safety, there are several aspects that need to be paid attention to:
1. The opening should be downward and outward;
2. The rope should pass through the iron from the climber. The lock to the protector must remain untwisted or tangled.
3. In order to reduce the friction of the protection rope on the rock wall and avoid entanglement, two iron locks or iron locks-with rings-iron locks are used for connection. The connection fulcrum and the protective rope cannot be used together with more than three iron locks, because such a connection will make the iron locks entangled and twisted.
Climbers need to use a large number of iron locks when climbing, and they need to use various types of iron locks. When choosing an iron lock, you should choose it according to your actual needs. Due to different uses and different types of iron locks, the tension, weight and price of the load are different. For example, the general weight of D-type iron locks for mountaineering and rock climbing is about 50g, while the weight of protective iron locks with fuse buckles is about 100g, and the price difference is also very large.
Climbers should also pay attention to the various signs engraved on the iron lock when choosing and purchasing the iron lock, such as: the engraving of UIAA indicates that it has been certified by the International Mountaineering Federation. When you rummage through the shelves and think about which type of lock you like, you also infuse your trust and safety into it, a feeling that is easy to recognize but difficult to explain.